Durango-Silverton Train

My new favorite campground is Lightner Creek Campground in Durango. What a jewel. Friendly staff. Got a sweet spot right next to the creek. As always, after I did all the hookups, I took Monte out for his walkies. We got to meet and greet Rosie the Corgi, owned by Keith and Becky. Rosie rode a golf cart and got to do chores with her workamper owners. Monte was envious of the cart, not the chores.

On Sunday I took the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad which loosely parallels the Skyway to see what I missed while driving in from Ouray. This steam train powered by coal

Million Dollar Highway

I did it! I made it to Silverton without falling off the edge of the world 'cause there would be no putting me, Matilda, or Monte back together again.  The Million Dollar Highway is part of route U.S. 550 between Ouray and Silverton and part of the San Juan Skyway Scenic Byway (yup, another scenic byway). The Million Dollar Highway is just the most expensive portion of the Skyway 'cause that's what it cost to build a road through this craggy mountain chain with no (and I mean no shoulder) and multiple avalanche chutes back whenever. This stretch is challenging and potentially hazardous to drive and that’s not just my opinion. It is characterized by steep cliffs, narrow lanes, and a lack of guardrails; the ascent is marked with a number of hairpin "S" curves used to gain elevation, and again, narrow lanes for traffic — many cut directly into the sides of mountains. I traveled south from Ouray to Silverton which positioned me on the outside edge of the highway. Large RV’s travel in both directions including me, which is just plain scary! I got an early start so traffic was light.  Many curves I took in the middle of the road. Me, worry about that double yellow line, not!

Did not buy the t-shirt and did not take these pictures.

Ouray, Colorado

Charming town of Ouray nestled in the San Juan Mountains. Did a little shopping, a little hiking, and a little chilling in the local hot springs pool. Was able to pickup my mail from General Delivery. Don't know why - mostly bills including my property tax bill from the Town of Branford.

Took a brief detour through one of the neighborhoods off the main road and found this moocher...can you find the deer in this picture?

Euphemism

I've discovered that in Colorado if the route is a scenic byway, it means peaks, summits, valleys, canyons, switchbacks, avalanche zones (falling rocks in the off season), no shoulders, and total focus on driving. It's all about elevation. I know I've mentioned that before. I have learned about the gears in my trusty E450 engine - go up slow, come down slow.  At least that's the plan.  When I looked at the route for today and saw it was called "Top of the Rockies" I didn't need to read that it was a scenic and historic byway. I know a euphemism when I see it. I was surrounded by Fourteeners (mountains over 14,000 feet) meaning I went over two of the highest peaks in Colorado. You'll be glad to know that I took no pictures (got postcards instead) of this gorgeous drive as both hands were glued to the steering wheel. Who knew that I would develop calluses on my hands driving on vacation!

Fortunately or unfortunately, it was a short driving day to my ultimate destination for the night - Baby Doe Campground in Leadville.  Got another great site with Turquoise Lake in my backyard. After settling in, Monte and I made the rounds to check out the neighborhood. Met a couple from Denver spending the week in the mountains with their three corgis. You would have thought we were having a corgi convention. It's unusual enough to run into one, but three!

You gotta do what you gotta do

After my long day on Saturday, I had no desire to do anything that required much effort. That being said, I did have to do laundry. A necessity to say the least.  I was running out. Gathered up everything on Sunday and went into town. Found Starbrite Laundromat and Cleaners. Got there first thing in the morning right after it opened - opened by the owner no less.  What an interesting person and great conversationalist. Laundry done in no time.

Just kinda chilled on Monday by touring around downtown Glenwood Springs. Visited Doc Holiday's grave - stuck back in a local neighborhood. Driving in and out of town is an experience going through Glenwood Canyon.

Finished the day by taking a soak in the world famous outdoor Glenwood Hot Springs. Read all about it in USA Today.  I have now hit the most fun town in the USA: The five best small towns in America

Oops...should have gone straight

After finishing my trek across Rocky Mountain National Park, I arrived at my stop for the next two nights, Winding River Resort in Grand Lake, Colorado. I made new Born Free friends from New York while standing in line to check in - small world.

Left Grand Lake for Glenwood Springs, Colorado.  I actually had a map and a plan on how to go, but, you know what they say, the best laid plans. Somehow I missed the part about going straight from Grand Lake to Kremmling and then south.  I made the infamous turn south too soon and went through Winter Park. Gorgeous ski country, but the road was unbelievably twisty and steep - climbed from 7935 feet almost 3000 feet in elevation over 20 miles - only 20 miles.  Talk about switchbacks! I didn't know whether I was coming or going! Being a Saturday, everybody and their brother was on the road and going soooo much faster than me. Could not relax for a minute.

Made it down to I70.  Thought I was home free - NOT! Now I had to contend with truckers speeding by while going DOWNHILL fast. I put my flashers on and crawled along. Went through the Eisenhower Tunnel known as the highest vehicular tunnel in the world at 11,158 feet - lucky me! And, I crossed the Continental Divide again. I have to admit I did get a sense of satisfaction knowing that I didn't have to pull over for smoking brakes or use one of the many runaway truck ramps!

My reward...Glenwood Canyon Resort on the Colorado River...elevation 5800 feet. I really have gone downhill - bad pun, long day.

Trail Ridge Road

Oh my goodness...today was the big day.  I've done some ups and some downs as I've traveled through Colorado, but nothing like today. In order to get from the east side of Rocky Mountain National Park to the west side, I had to go over Trail Ridge Road. It's only 40 miles but let's talk about leaving one world and entering another. Trail Ridge Road is another example of America's scenic byways. The road climbs to 12,183 feet above sea level. It was curvy as well as "hilly" to say the least. Again I started early to get ahead of my fellow travelers - I go slow and hate to have someone on my bumper. At the half way point was Alpine Visitor Center at 11,796. My big payoff occurred right after I left - elk waiting in the road for me to take their picture. Yes, I did. Stopped right there and took their pics!

Rocky Mountain National Park

After leaving Guernsey State Park in Wyoming, I tripped on over to Estes Park. Made one stop on the way for Monte. Saw a PetSmart store right off the highway so pulled in to get Monte a nail trim and pickup some dog food. Got to grab it while you can.

Awesome - entrance to Moraine Campground at Rocky Mountain National Park. Lucky me that I had reservations.  The sign at the entrance said FULL and I know why - location, location, location!

Left Monte behind the next day so he could rest up from the drive to Estes Park. He just feels he has to watch me drive, so he misses his afternoon naps. I went to Bear Lake to walk around the lake and then on over to Alberta Falls - both easy hikes with a huge payoff.  Great views.

Alberta Falls...

My campsite. Lots of early morning deer sightings.  At least I saw them. Monte had his nose to the ground hoovering up scents.

Speaking of wildlife, the most dangerous kind is of the human variety. Driving along I came up on some tourist who had stopped almost in the middle of the road, abandoned their vehicle, and crossed the road to get a picture. And if there is one, everyone else has to stop and see what's what. OK, I admit it, if I had my camera with me I would have been one, too.  Moose or elk sightings are not to be missed!

Oregon Trail

After retracing my steps back to Mount Rushmore to do a bit more touring around, I made my way south to Fort Laramie and pieces of the Oregon Trail including Register Cliff and Oregon Trail Ruts.  Emigrants transversing the Oregon Trail would carve their names in the soft rock - letting those that follow know that they made it this far.  I got a picture below that shows a J.W. Robb of the U.S. Post passed through here in 1857.  At Oregon Trail Ruts, I got to see where the wagon wheels cut through solid rock.  No more complaining here about bad roads.

Perfect site for the night - Guersney State Park...first night of dry camping - no hookups, but plenty of fantastic scenery.

Medora, ND

Getting from Mount Rushmore to Medora, ND sounds easy but let me tell you, it's a long drive with nothing much between here and there. As always I left the campground early - beat the traffic (ha ha).  I think I continue to live on east coast time. Anyway I eventually got on scenic Highway 85 which turns out to be 126 miles of nothing - no gas, no rest stops, no nothing but wide open spaces.  Good thing I gassed up first!  Even with a gas tank of 55 gallons you never want to get too low. Filling up could give you agida!

I spent 3 days up north with my Born Free cult members hosted by Gary and Hope Keighley. I got to add another National Park to my Passport Book - Theodore Roosevelt National Park - by touring with Sonja Strickland, another solo Born Free owner. Had a great time with everyone and as always learned new stuff about my Born Free.  Thanks to a tip from Ron Warmbier I can now get my car detached from the tow package when it gets pinched.  Most of you don't know what I'm talking about (or care) but Janet and Beth can tell you how aggravated I can get when trying to unhook the Honda from the Born Free.

We finished our rally with a steak dinner and the spectacular 2011 Medora Musical dedicated to the legacy of America's 26th president - Theordore Roosevelt. This amazing production is staged in an outside ampitheater where the backdrop is the North Dakota Badlands.  Talk about an experience.

4th of July

Trails, tunnels, and wildlife

I left Creede and the National Born Free Rally on Thursday so that I could spend the 4th of July weekend at Mount Rushmore and surrounding territory. I got into Hill City on Friday, July 1st and parked Matilda for the weekend. After a day's rest and doing some laundry, I was raring to hit the trail this morning with Monte, my trusty companion. First stop was Sylvan Lake at Custer State Park. Monte and I hiked around the lake in picture perfect weather.

I loaded us back up in the Honda (still running that $4.00/gallon gas from Connecticut) to travel the Needles Highway - named after the high granite "needles" it winds among.  The highway passes through at least two tunnels blasted through sheer granite walls. Owing to the narrow roadway, sharp turns, and low tunnels, this road is for tourists in small vehicles...RV's need not apply. In fact, I got caught in a traffic jam of sightseers toting cameras and blocking the tunnel.

Stopped for lunch at the General Store for a buffalo burger cookout. I had the privilege of paying for my lunch, but Monte got his free! Last stop of the day - the Wildlife Loop...

Oh, give me a home where the buffalo roam,

Where the deer and the antelope play;

Where seldom is heard a discouraging work,

And the skies are not cloudy all day.